Shredded Turf Installation Guide

 

Measuring and Ordering

With a measuring tape, measure the area of your planned lawn. Multiply the length by the width to determine the size of the area in square meters.


We harvest to order and require 3-5 days notice before collection. Prompt installation on the day of collection is crucial to establish a healthy lawn.

 


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Soil Preparation

For best results, excavate the area to a depth of 300mm (after fixing levels) and replace with a good quality topsoil. If this is not possible you could work soil conditioners (Bentonite Clay and Humus) into the existing soil and mix to a depth of approximately 150mm (Loam is best for sandy soils). Eliminate drainage problems by having the soil slope away from foundations, etc.

Rake and smooth the soil removing rocks, roots and any debris. Leave the surface as light and fluffy as possible to allow for ploughing in the grass. Dig in organic material if available (Dynamic Lifter at 10kg/50m2) and spread Eco Prime NPK Red fertiliser over area as needed, 10kg per 50m2. This will feed the lawn essential nutrients during establishment.


IF YOU LIVE IN THE HILLS THE ROCK AND GRAVEL THAT EXISTS IN YOUR GARDEN IS THE WORST
MEDIUM IN WHICH TO GROW HEALTHY TURF


These materials hold the summer heat and literally bake your grass to death. Before you install your new turf and to ensure healthy growth if you have gravel in your soil you must cover it with sandy topsoil at least 30cm deep.

 


 

Installation

Spread one bag of grass out at a time (over 100m2) teasing the grass out to cover it as evenly as possible. Only work on one bag at a time to avoid grass drying out. Aim to get 95% of the grass under the soil, whatever is left on the surface will die.

Using the disc roller (or with a spade) work the grass into the top 30mm of soil.Each bag should take about 1—2 hours to install fully. Follow up immediately with plenty of water.

 


 

Watering

Shredded lawn is very susceptible to dehydration and dying off in the first 8 weeks after planting in Summer. The soil must be kept moist during the first 4 weeks for this reason. Follow the Watering Schedule below for Summer and use common sense at other times of year.

Summer Watering Schedule


The Lawn requires 10mm of water at each watering session until week 4 when you will need to
increase it to 25mm.


Week 1 :

Three times a day
9am - 12 noon - 3 pm

Week 2 :

Twice a day
10 am - 2 pm

Week 3 :

Once a day at 12 Noon

Week 4 - 8 :

Once every 2nd day in the morning.

Week 8 onwards :

Twice a week in the morning

Winter

Need to use common sense but we recommend following schedule from week 3

Water Authority exemptions are available when establishing new lawns.
Call 13 13 85 for details

 

When you have full coverage, you should be deep watering two to three times per week to encourage
deep rooting for a healthier lawn. If you apply small amounts of water at each session you risk loss to evaporation within the first two hours after the sun comes up, leaving your turf exposed to the heat of the day.

Watering with reticulation is preferred as hand watering can be inaccurate. Care should be taken to minimise watering when the wind is blowing as the amount of water that actually hits the ground will be minimal. If watering in the wind is unavoidable compensate by watering for longer.



 

Caring for Your Lawn

Your new lawn will increase your property value significantly. With correct care, it will remain a great asset, providing beauty, a clean playing surface and an improved environment.

As your lawn is a long term investment it is important to understand what your lawn requires on a regular basis. The following information should be helpful to keep your lawn green and healthy.

Mow the heads off your lawn when it starts to look untidy, making sure your mower is set up high. Gradually lower the the mower for successive mows. Once fully covered, mow often. Generally no more then one third of the leaf should be removed. A reel mower will give the best results, especially with couch lawn.

Fertilising should be done with a good quality fertiliser such as Eco Prime NPK Red. It is advisable to fertilise your lawn every 6-8 weeks right through out the year at a maintenance rate of 10kg per 100m2. Always water your fertiliser in really well to ensure that it is dissolved.

 


 

Long Term Maintenance

Thatch

Thatch is a layer of stems and roots that have not decomposed yet. It accumulates near the soil surface at a rate which is determined by the vigour and type of lawn. When thatch becomes excessive, the lawn may begin to root into the thatch layer instead of the soil. This is a problem as thatch does not hold water or nutrients.

Vertimowing is the way to de-thatch your lawn and promote healthy new growth. Vertimowing in cooler weather can significantly slow the rate of recovery but if done in the warmer seasons, watered and fertilised adequately, your lawn should recover within a couple of weeks.

Compaction

Compacted soil can restrict grass roots from growing and receiving vital nutrients. Aerating your turf is the process of removing plugs from the soil, also known as coring. This will allow the roots to penetrate deeper and reach vital nutrients and moisture.

Aeration can be done manually by wriggling a garden fork back and forward to open out air passages. For larger areas a motorised coring machine will reduce labour time and as the cores are removed from the soil, will have greater results. Aerating for most lawns should be done annually.